Liathach: the Grey One, Torridon's Toughest Ridge

"Liathach: the Grey One, Torridon’s Toughest Ridge" is a phrase that stirs excitement and trepidation in equal measure among hillwalkers. This iconic ridge, rising dramatically above Glen Torridon in the north-west Highlands, is the epitome of rugged Scottish mountain grandeur. With two Munro summits - Spidean a’ Choire Leith (1055m) and Mullach an Rathain (1024m) - and the infamous Am Fasarinen pinnacles along its route, Liathach is a challenge that combines breathtaking views, exhilarating scrambling, and a sense of true adventure. However, this route is not for the faint-hearted. The narrow, exposed ridgeline demands respect and careful planning, but for those with the fitness and experience to take it on, the rewards are unparalleled.

Often overshadowed by its glamorous neighbours Beinn Eighe and Beinn Alligin, Liathach stands apart as the most demanding of Torridon’s great ridges. Its name translates as "The Grey One", a nod to the vast swathes of quartzite scree and sandstone terraces that give the mountain its striking appearance. Whether you are lured by the technical challenge, the allure of its two Munros, or simply the chance to walk one of Scotland’s most celebrated ridge traverses, Liathach promises a day out that will stay with you forever.

Route Overview

The Liathach ridge traverse is a strenuous yet deeply rewarding hike. Starting in Glen Torridon, the route ascends steeply to the ridge before following a dramatic and exposed line westwards over its two Munros, with some serious scrambling in between. The descent is no less demanding, requiring care on steep, loose ground. Here are the key stats:

Distance: Approximately 9km for the full traverse. Ascent: 1,000-1,200 metres. Time: 7-10 hours on average. Start Point: Car park or layby on the A896 near Glen Cottage (Grid Ref: NG 812 566). Summits: Spidean a’ Choire Leith (1055m) and Mullach an Rathain (1024m). Scrambling Grade: Grade 2/3 on the pinnacles, with bypass options.

Getting to the Start

Liathach is located in Glen Torridon, accessible via the A896 road that connects Torridon village with Kinlochewe. From Torridon village, travel east for about 5km to reach the starting point, a small car park or layby on the left-hand side, near Glen Cottage. If approaching from Kinlochewe, the starting point is approximately 15km along the A896. Parking is limited, so it is advisable to arrive early, especially during weekends or peak summer months.

Unfortunately, there is no public transport serving Glen Torridon directly, so access is limited to those with private vehicles. If you plan to complete the full traverse, consider organising a car shuttle or arranging for someone to pick you up at the western end of the ridge, as there is a 4km road walk back to the starting point otherwise.

The Walk Step by Step

Ascent to the Ridge via Stùc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig

The adventure begins with a steep ascent from the car park, climbing directly up towards the eastern end of the ridge. The first target is Stùc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig, a prominent top at the eastern extremity of Liathach. The initial climb is unrelenting, with loose scree, grassy slopes, and rocky outcrops to negotiate. Torridonian sandstone terraces add a touch of geological interest, while the increasingly expansive views down Glen Torridon provide motivation to keep climbing. Some mild rock scrambling is required to gain the ridge, where the real journey begins.

Spidean a’ Choire Leith

Once on the ridge, the route turns westwards towards Spidean a’ Choire Leith, Liathach’s highest point at 1055m. The terrain here is rugged but straightforward, with well-trodden paths weaving through quartzite boulders. Some gentle scrambling over rocky blocks adds to the excitement, but there are no major difficulties at this stage. From the summit, the views are extraordinary: Beinn Eighe across the glen and Loch Torridon to the south create a mesmerising panorama.

Am Fasarinen Pinnacles

The next section is the most challenging and technical part of the walk: the traverse of the Am Fasarinen pinnacles. This series of jagged, exposed rocky spires demands confident movement over Grade 2/3 scrambling terrain, with significant drops on either side. The rock is generally solid, but the exposure is not to be underestimated. For those less confident on such ground, a bypass path runs along the southern flank of the ridge. However, this alternative route is itself steep, eroded, and exposed in places. Whether you choose the pinnacles or the bypass, care and concentration are essential.

Mullach an Rathain and the Descent

After the pinnacles, the ridge narrows further before reaching Mullach an Rathain at 1024m. This second Munro summit offers another opportunity to pause and admire the staggering views over Loch Torridon, the surrounding peaks, and the sea beyond. From here, the descent begins: a steep and challenging drop westwards via a path that zigzags down loose scree and grassy slopes to Toll Ban. Once in the glen, a 4km walk along the A896 road takes you back to the starting point unless a car shuttle has been arranged.

What You Will Need

Liathach is a serious mountain route, and proper preparation is essential. Here is a recommended kit list:

• Sturdy, well-fitting walking boots with good grip.
• Waterproof jacket and trousers: weather can change rapidly in Torridon.
• Warm layers, including a hat and gloves, even in summer.
• Map, compass, and GPS device for navigation.
• Plenty of water and high-energy snacks.
• Helmet (optional but advised for the pinnacles).
• Scrambling experience and a good head for heights.

Safety and Hazards

Liathach is a mountain that demands respect. The exposure, steep terrain, and technical scrambling can be daunting, particularly in poor weather. Strong winds can make the ridge and pinnacles especially hazardous. Always check the Mountain Weather Information Service (MWIS) forecast before setting out, and be prepared to turn back if conditions deteriorate. In winter, ice and snow transform the ridge into a serious mountaineering challenge requiring full winter kit, including crampons and an ice axe.

In case of emergency, contact Mountain Rescue Torridon. Ensure someone knows your route and expected return time. The nearest facilities, including shops and accommodation, are in Torridon village.

Key Takeaways

• Liathach’s ridge traverse is a strenuous, exposed route suitable only for experienced hillwalkers.
• Two Munros can be bagged: Spidean a’ Choire Leith and Mullach an Rathain.
• The Am Fasarinen pinnacles involve Grade 2/3 scrambling, with a difficult bypass option.
• Parking at the start is limited, and a car shuttle is recommended for the full traverse.
• Check weather conditions carefully and carry appropriate gear.

Where to Stay Nearby

For those planning to stay in the area, here are some recommended options:

• Torridon Youth Hostel: Budget-friendly accommodation with excellent facilities for walkers.
• The Torridon Hotel: A luxurious option offering fine dining and stunning views.
• Kinlochewe Caravan Club Site: Ideal for campervans and caravans, with good access to Glen Torridon.

Frequently Asked Questions

How hard is Liathach? Liathach is widely regarded as one of Scotland’s toughest ridge walks. The combination of steep ascents, technical scrambling, and exposure makes it a strenuous route suited to experienced hillwalkers with a good level of fitness and confidence on challenging terrain.

Can you avoid the pinnacles on Liathach? Yes, there is a bypass path on the south side of the ridge that avoids the Am Fasarinen pinnacles. However, this alternative route is still steep, eroded, and exposed in places, so it should not be taken lightly.

How long does Liathach take? The full traverse typically takes between 7 and 10 hours, depending on conditions and individual fitness levels. Allow extra time for breaks and to savour the views.

Is Liathach the hardest Munro? While opinions vary, Liathach is certainly one of the most challenging Munros due to its exposed ridge and technical scrambling. However, routes like the Inaccessible Pinnacle on Skye or the Aonach Eagach ridge in Glencoe are often considered equally, if not more, difficult.

To explore other nearby adventures, consider Beinn Eighe across the glen, Beinn Alligin nearby in Torridon, or try some low-level walks in Torridon. For a deeper dive into what makes Liathach so challenging, read our honest assessment of Liathach difficulty.